My bike build story…..
Well, as the saying goes you cannot have too many bikes.
So after riding my trusty Giant Defy 0 since I started this cycle lark late autumn 2014, I started to look around for a new bike. Nothing wrong with the Defy 0. I had done 10K + and it has been a joy to ride.
Upgraded parts of the drive train to make it fully Ultegra, and a pair of Pacenti SL23 wheels which I fitted with 25c Conti tyres. This improved the ride, but it also gave me minimal clearance between the tyre and the rim brake.
My main interest is endurance cycling and not every road is as smooth as silk and grit and gravel would on several occasions get picked up by the tyres and jam between the tyre and the rim brake. I eventually removed the 25c tyres and fitted 23c tyres. The wider rim of the Pacenti made the tyre more U shaped and running them at about 80psi was a reasonable compromise (I hit 83kg on a good day). This change also increased the distance from the tyre to the underside of the rim brake.
So the quest was on to find a bike that was more endurance specific especially with more room between the underside of the fork / rim brake and the tyre. I was not bothered about disk brakes. Plenty of people have cycled great distances with rim brakes.
I have no passion for carbon. The material does nothing for me. I think endurance cycling has more to do with your frame of mind than brute force, hence I need to be in tune with the bike both mentally and physically at least that is what works for me. The choice was between Aluminium, Titanium or Steel … Since the Defy is aluminium I felt I needed to try something else. TI from what I could see has great advantages with respect to vibration damping and corrosion protection. But welding it, is not so easy, and repairing it, well that is not something that you can do at some far flung place, in the middle of nowhere.
The TI frames that I could find that were made in Europe were all too expensive for my budget. The more reasonable frames are made in China or Taiwan.
Well long story short, I thought I should look into steel a bit more … The Transcontinental race was just about to start and what better way to look for an endurance bike than looking at what bikes were used in that race. MASON Cycles cycles had supplied steel and aluminium frames to riders in that race, both in 2015 and 2016. So had Jaegher out of Belgium.
The bikes from MASON had got great reviews and had a nice modern look (I also like the sloping top tube look) – it looked like a lot of details had gone into the design .. Designed in UK, handmade steel frames from Italy .. well I liked the sound of that.
I started emailing MASON asking all sorts of daft questions .. as I really have no clue about bikes. I got reasonably timely responses to my questions and after pouring over the MASON web site for hours … I ended up ordering a Resolution frame kit. I wanted to build the bike myself so I could get it just the way I wanted it… Basically … Ultegra running gear, cable operated calipers and the same saddle and seat post as I have on my Defy 0.
So the order was eventually placed…. and a few weeks later than expected the frame arrived.
Disclaimer: Just to make it clear, I have no idea what I am doing. I have no ties with MASON and If you do what I have done and be unlucky enough to end up in the ditch. ?Do not blame me!
Very well packed no issue with the transport, except that Parcel Force made a mistake not collecting it when they should and the delivery was one day late.
The finish of the frame was absolutely superb. It had that rich wet look. The photos do not do the paint finish justice.
Fitting the crown race on the fork
Unfortunately I do not have a crown race tool to push it down on the fork. Trying to tap it down by going from side to side with a piece of soft wood is just too rudimentary so no choice but to head off to the B&Q bicycle tool section…
Just make sure you have put the race on the right way up. As now is NOT the time to discover you have it the wrong way around!
This is the correct way the bottom crown bearing will rest against the 45 deg inside angle.
Fitting the top bearing in the frame.
Not a problem, assuming you put it in the right way up. Look inside the steel tube and the bearing must rest against the 45 deg angle inside the tube.
Before fitting the bearing I got my magnifying glass out and wrote down the bearing information which is laser etched on the side of the bearing – for that unfortunate day in the future when the bearing has to be replaced.
A few gentle blows with my hide hammer pushed the bearing in place. It does not sit flush with the steel tube.
Note the soft wood protecting the other end of the tube.
I was enjoying the sunshine and was doing this in the garden, resting the wood on the patio stone wall.
Deda – Head bush kit
The 3 shims are there to ensure that the black sealing washer is just touching the steel top tube.
Once I have cut the fork steerer tube to the right length I will pack everything with lithium based grease.
The top sealing washer (with the Deda logo) has a very small sealing “O” ring that fits tight against the steerer tube. Take care when pushing it down on the tube to prevent it being damaged.
After pushing the parts together it looks like the 3 shims are just about right
This is what the head set bearing kit looks like before it was fitted. The large bearing is for the bottom. The black bottom bearing race was already fitted to the fork when this photo was taken
Now this is where you part company with Mason… Well .. what I mean is this.
Now you have a great foundation to fit the kit that you want to fit. So the following is what I felt would work the best for me.
I bought a Dura-Ace bottom bracket. Ultegra would have been just as good but the price difference was negligible. The threads have already been cleaned up and the surface has been faced off by MASON. This is good as I did not fancy the idea of buying more tools to build the bike.
In this photo the bearing with the plastic tube has already been fitted. The yellow material that you can see is Mastinox 6856, Used in the aircraft industry to protect against corrosion and galvanic action between dissimilar metals. It’s completely unnecessary, but as I have it … I decided to use it. If not I would just have used the same grease as I will use for the head set
When you thread the bearing with its housing in place you will notice that the threads have a locking compound painted on the threads
When the bearing housing is 3mm from fully in place I applied grease on the surface. Then using the plastic screw adapter.
With Park tool BBT-9 the bearing and its housing is secured.
You are supposed to set this to 30Nm. Well, I have a torque wrench but no adapter that will fit this.
One trick is to use a spring balance and work out the pull based on the lever arm. The other is just to use the torque wrench bolted to a vice. Pull 30Nm holding it at the same length as the Park tool so you get a feel for what 30Nm feels like.
Now is a good time to make a note of the serial number stamped on the bottom bracket. Looks like the guy who did the manual stamping bounced the first number. I am not sure if the painting is done in Italy. Maybe the worker who did it had one too many glasses of wine with his lunch.
Now is also a good time to clean out the holes if they are filled with grease or as in my case with Mastinox. The two large holes are drain holes. The small hole in the middle is for the bottom bracket derailleur cable guide fixing screw.
Small parts for cable run
Now it was time to look at all the small bits. Time to get to grips with how and where to run all the cables. Derailleur and Brake cables. Split inner or solid inner. All had me scratching my head for the best combination and actually figuring out what it all means!
The sleeve shown in the MASON pdf manual on the web site took me some time to find, but putting manual in the search box took me to it. I am used to simpler websites with a straight forward click on Support.
The single sleeve has been replaced with a much better alternative, the long nose Jagwire outer cable end shown in the above photo
Unfortunately what I could not find was the BB cable guide. I looked high and low in all the packaging but could only find the two clear bags shown in the photo. I had a few text messages on my phone from MASON. Both Dom and Cal have been excellent with communication. So I sent a short text explaining the problem and got a reply back (late Saturday) that they would post the missing item on Monday or Tuesday.
I also had a few questions regarding the 3 types of inserts that was supplied for all the cables. Which was promptly replied to on a Sunday!
I had received :
- 2 x Very small hole. Which is for split cable, i.e. no outer.
- 2 x Medium hole. Which is for gear cable, you just need to have the end removed from the cable when running it through the insert (i.e. no split cable).
- 2 x Large hole. Which is for the brake cable. Same principle as for the gear cable. Not split but solid outer, end to end.
In addition, I had also received 2 Blanking inserts, to use if you run no cable , and 2 of same design as the blanking insert except that it has a huge hole in the blanking plate part. This is for use with electrical gear shifting as in another small bag was two rubber grommets that would fit the large hole. The rubber grommet had a small hole for the electrical wire to go through.
I was not sure what to do next ? Do I run all split or just some split? What are the pros and cons for doing one over the other ?
I could not make my mind up so I thought I should do something less complicated ….
Fitting the seat post
Last year I replaced my OEM Giant carbon seat post with a steel seat clamp for a the Ritchie Pro Logic single bolt seat clamp it improved the ride comfort, so decided to fit the same seat post on the Resolution.
Looking good !
Just a few more bits now and it will be ready to ride!
Next on the list was fitting the brakes. I had no interest in using hydraulic brakes. My reasoning is to keep it simple and I would rather deal with a pure mechanical system than have to deal with leaking seals, bleeding etc…
MASON are using the Spyre disk calipers for the non hydro bikes. One thing that had me a bit confused, well a fair bit confused actually was the way they were referenced too. Flat mount or mounted on a bracket. Well they both looked flat mounted to me and they both had brackets!
In the end I think I got it right. I had a hard time finding the left (flat mount) for the fork But managed in the end to find stock at Chain Reaction. I was not sure if going for 160mm or 140mm disk on the front so I bought both sizes. With 12 month return policy I plan to send one back. My starting point is 160mm.
The caliper on the right was easy to find. Wiggle had both 160mm and 140mm in stock. The rear brake is specified as 140mm, It’s only the fork can take 140mm or 160mm.
At first I could not get the screw to enter. I then discovered that the threads are not tapped directly in the mounting bracket, but in a steel insert which you have to align with a screw driver.
I assume that you can remove this if need be. If you are too heavy handed and strip the threads.
One thing I discovered was that the bracket had distorted a bit. You cannot see it in this picture as here the caliper is bolted down tight (but not to full torque). When the front bolt was tight, the rear of the caliper was about 1.5mm above the bracket. Hence the bracket must have been distorted when it was welded in place.
Contemplated shimming the rear end but in the end decided that this was probably “typical”
I am sure the bracket must have been held in a jig of some sort when it was welded on to the frame. If that bracket was made such that it held the mounting surface parallel during welding, this should not have happened.
I was a bit worried that I should see the same on the fork. But the two mounting holes were perfectly aligned so no pre-loading on the mounting surface of the fork.
Both calipers will be torque up when the cables and wheels are in place.
Both pads move together to clamp the disk. So to align the caliper it makes sense to see if they will self center by holding down the brake lever and then evenly tightening down the fixing bolts.
We will see if that idea works once the cables are in place.
Fitting the saddle
I thought it would be nice to see what the bike would look like with the seat fitted. I applied some carbon grip grease and fitted the Specialized Romin Evo Expert Gel Saddle 2016 model that I was comfortable riding on with my Defy.
The clamp is a simple one bolt design that secures both the rail (forward backwards adjustment) and the angle of the saddle.
I have found the easiest way to fit this type of clamp is to secure the seat to the clamp first.
Then tilt it as far vertical as you can get. Then slide it on to the seat post from the rear
It will be interesting to see how much more flex this arrangement will have compared to my Giant. On the Giant the seat post dia is 31.7mm on the Resolution its 27.2mm. So it might absorb road vibration better (Thinner tube should flex more)
I had bought a wheel set from HUNT. My plan is to later on replace the front wheel with a Dyno hub wheel (probably Pacenti rim, will see …) But for now the HUNT wheels will do fine.
I was initially a bit confused regarding how to secure the disk. But once getting all the bits together it all made sense.
I also fitted the 11-32 Ultegra cassette at the same time.
Starting to look like a bike!
Protecting the paint
Before running any cables I wanted to cover exposed parts with 3M protective clear tape, generically known as helicopter tape, probably because of its use as leading edge protection on the rotor blades. I had a look on eBay and found a supplier for 3M 8671HS which is a high sheer Polyurethane Protective Tape.
Then I set about to cover the following parts,
Underside of the complete down tube, The rear facing full length of the seat tube and each side of the chain stay. I also did a full wrap of the seat tube just below the top tube as I normally clamp the bike on the work stand in that location (not on the top tube as shown in the above photo)
I bought a long strip 300mm x 900mm which I cut down to size. Plenty to spare for the next bike.
The stuff is easy to cut as long as you have a sharp blade and cut on a soft surface.
The stuff is easy to cut as long as you have a sharp blade and cut on a soft surface.
When applied it emphasises the surface a wet look.
Before I applied it I wiped the surface with Isopropyl Alcohol. Great for removing finger mark and any form of grease which will be detrimental to securing the tape.
Oh .. you see the blue tape on the top tube..
Its there to protect the top tube from the steering arm which will easily swing around and hit the top tube … do not ask how I know …
With the frame now fitted with the 3M tape I mounted the frame in my Turbo Trainer. That made it easy to put pull wires in place to help me pull the cables for the rear brake and front and rear derailleur.
Reading the manual for the Spyre calipers they recommend using compressionless outer. This in essence is gear cable outer which has been reinforced with Kevlar due to the larger compression force that the brake cable experiences compared with the gear cable.
I am sure normal spiral wrapped brake outer would work fine as well. I could always have used the normal brake cable and then upgraded if I felt that I was not getting good braking performance.
Anyway, I started to look around for compressionless brake cable and found that Wiggle had a Jagwire kit, with both brake and gear cable.
The kit looked good and I thought I should give it a go.
Pulling fishing wire through as required was easy using a small nut attached to the line and a strong magnet. Just drop the line in from the top hole and hold the magnet close to the bottom hole and bingo. The line was in place
Then I fitted the Ultegra crank 50-34. Covered the BB with grease and inserted the crank with a firm push to drive it fully home. Then using the end cap and the plastic pre-tension tool I nipped it up, attached the arm and torque it all up. Job done, just need to fit the SPD-SL pedals
Oh! one other thing. I had by now received the missing front derailleur BB guide from MASON. Great when you can 3D print your own parts. What will be next? Print a complete bike!
Bottom bracket GUIDE
Fitting the bracket. The holes were lining up perfectly but the internal radius of the part did not correspond to the curvature of the bottom bracket steel shell.
It’s not that easy to see in the below photo but the gap is about 2.5mm at the highest point.
Providing the guide does not break this does not matter ? The tension on the front derailleur cable is relatively high and I wonder how durable the material is when under constant compression force. Ideally the guide should have been in full contact with the BB shell.
We will have to see. Probably a good idea to have a spare if going for some epic ride in the middle of nowhere. I will see what MASON have to say about this.
Waiting for the Jagwire cable kit to arrive from Wiggle I decided to fit the fork and cut down the steerer tube.
Fitting the fork
Based on the Defy geometry I wanted a slightly more relaxed position. Now I could put the resolution next to the Defy and compare the geometry. My height fell bang smack in the middle for a medium frame or a large frame. My Defy is a medium frame size, but with Resolution I decided to go with Large (56). This worked out well and I could now easy see how the geometry compared.
I mounted the pedals and put the bike back in the Turbo trainer to allow me to sit on the bike and get the right feel for things. I started with a 100mm stem and 40mm stack height. This turned out not to be ideal. I swapped the 100mm stem for a 90mm stem and removed one 10mm spacer. This felt a lot better. My handlebars are slightly higher than what I have on the Defy but I still have a good Aero position when on the drops.
I can always remove another of the 3 x 10mm Deda carbon spacers that I now was left with if I want a more aggressive riding position.
It was my intention to have a 3mm spacer on top.
I made a scribe line at the cap location as a reference. Then I removed the 3mm spacer and made another scribe line at the top of the stem.
I used a 32 teeth hacksaw blade (B&Q). Not too much downwards force and not too fast and the blade will cut the carbon tube with no problem.
Do not breathe in the carbon dust. So go easy and wear a face mask is you are a bit paranoid.
The fork was supplied with the bung already pushed into the steer tube (it was not tightened) but even so it was a bit tricky to remove. I had to carefully clamp it in my vice and pull it out.
I should have allowed for the top flange of the bung when I cut the steer tube.
I did not have enough clearance under the cap with a 3mm spacer and had to fit a 5mm spacer to get enough clearance to allow the fork to mount correctly.
It will be interesting to see if I run out of the space once the bearing has settled in after a few miles and I have to re-tighten the steer cap bolt.
I then applied grease to all the head bush parts and mounted the fork in the frame
Head bush cap
I think the supplied Deda cap and the black countersunk hex head bolt looks a bit, well .. not in tune with the rest of the bike.
Initially some confusion if this was actually a carbon cap or not. Well its a aluminum cap – you can actually buy it from Bike24 in Germany.
I hope the bolt is Sheradised, or it will rust very quickly
The MASON manual show a much nicer head cap. See picture below taken from the MASON manual.
I think this cap look much nicer and more in fitting with the general high finish of the bike frame (picture is from the Resolution PDF manual)
No big deal … I spoke to Mason and they send me a free stainless steel bolt to use with the Deda cap – Looks much better I think …
The bung did not look like the one in the picture so probably an earlier version. Apply normal grease to the cone surface only NOT to the surface in contact with the carbon tube. I applied some carbon grip paste to the inside of the steer tube and very gently secured the bung in place.
By now the Jagwire kit had arrived and I was ready to install the cables.
The kit has loads of nice little bits for the brake and STI shifter cables. Aluminium and caps, rubber buffers and cable clamps.
The inner wires have a black Teflon coating.
It will be interesting to see how long they will last compared to the Dura Ace cable set I have fitted on my other bike.
I still had not made my mind up regarding running split outer or full outer. I bought some more inserts with the very small hole to use for split outers from MASON. Just in case I needed them.
Good selection of cable ends supplied with the Jagwire kit
I started with the rear brake cable and decided to run that with a full outer all the way. It was an expensive option as the kit does not have enough brake cable to run full length to the rear and also have full length to the front. So had to order a second kit. Expensive this bike building business!
The brake cable is very stiff. Much stiffer that normal brake cable. It is so stiff that at the handle bar end it has a short section (about 150mm give and take ) with normal spiral wrapped cable to allow it to fit in nicely against the tight handlebar radius.
It was easy to feed the outer through the bike frame using the pull wire I had fitted earlier.
Just taped the outer to the fishing line and it pulled straight through.
It is fiddly to secure the aluminium insert when you run a full outer.
With a split outer you have to secure the insert before you push the cable through. You have no room to get a screw driver in place to secure the screw once the outer is in place.
Thinking about it now after the build is done. It would have been easier to use a long length of inner first. Then use that to feed the outer after securing the inserts in the frame. Oh well … I will do that next time.
Make sure that you apply grease to the screw as you do not want any galvanic action to take place between the stainless screw and the threads in the steel frame. You may not get the screw back out at some future date should you decide to change insert to a different type.
I have two small issues with the bike. There are small niggles that I think 99% of people would not care about …
The first issue …. Rear securing point does not align perfectly with the brake caliper cable outer
I appreciate that most will probably use normal brake cable which will be more flexible.
If you are using hydraulic calipers. The inlet for the hydraulic hose may be further outboard. Hence alignment would be much better
Hydraulic hose is much more flexible so this would not be an issue at all
I trimmed the cable and fitted one of the aluminium end caps.
The following photos highlight the alignment issue much better
I think if the bracket was fitted about 1″ further forward and rotated 15deg inboard it would line up perfectly with the cable in its current position. I would also have thought that this location would work just as well for a hydraulic caliper.
I can force the cable in place, and the brake still works. But it just does not look right. At least in my eyes.
My solution was to secure the cable to the inboard side of the rear bracket. Now the cable lay straight along the chain stay and has a natural bend up to the caliper.
Nit picking …. I know .. Once riding on the open road or climbing some monster hill one will have other things to think about.
I decided to run split outer to the rear derailleur. In hindsight that was probably a bad idea but I am not going to change it for now. Why a bad idea ? Well if you have to change the inner when out on the road it will be a real pain. Not sure how you would actually do it as you need to remove the insert. At least with a full outer you can just push a new inner all the way. Even if the outer is worn, at least you can keep going.
The Ultegra rear derailleur has a sharp exit angle for the cable and I have seen on my current bike that the inner does wear in that location. When it fails, this is the location it will fail in.
The second issue ….
The second small thing I do not like about the bike. When the chain breaks and the derailleur flips up the cable is being bent in a S shape.
I know that this is absolutely no issue when you run an electric rear derailleur.
From my very limited experience with bikes. It looks to me as if all (most) rear derailleur have the cable running along the bottom of the chain stay. Now the cable has a single U bend which will open up when the chain breaks and the derailleur flips up.
I am curious as to why the cable was not run inside the down tube, out next to the BB around and along the bottom of the chain stay in a more conventional way ?
Possibly not a good idea to have two holes in the down tube next to the BB. But this could be reinforced with a small steel section / insert / doubler ?
It would be interesting to understand the rational for running the cable in the way it is done….
One very small point that I now believe is no longer an issue. When I received my extra inserts with the small hole for running split outer, the hole has been increased.
I discovered that on the two inserts supplied with the frame. I had to open up the hole from #47 to #43
I fitted the rubber sealing plug in the hole for the front derailleur. This would have been used for the electrical wire on a D2 running gear.
Same type bung is also fitted on the chain stay next to the rear derailleur when you do not run electric shifters.
I cut out a small piece of 3M tape to protect the paint work before fitting the front derailleur.
Very easy to line up the front derailleur. Just get the teeth on the big ring to line up behind the marking on the orange sticker fitted on the derailleur
Then make sure the cage of the derailleur is perfectly parallel with the teeth and you are pretty much spot on.
I ended up with 112 links in the chain
When fitting the Ultegra chain I ended up with 112 link
That is on a 11-32 cassette and 50-34 Crank
The rear derailleur is a medium cage Ultegra? RD-6800-GS
I tried out two different handle bars,
- Deda Zero100 RHM
- Deda Zero Shallow.
I ended up with the Zero 100 RHM. It has a nice flat top and the right size drop for my liking.
Front brake cable
Fitting the brake cable to the front caliper was relatively straight forward.
I have fitted 160mm disk and that does mean that the caliper is quite close to the cable exit hole in the fork. With the stiff outer cable I was not able to push the cable end in place with the Jagwire end cap in place.
All I did was to remove the calliper. Insert the cable and then bolt it up to the fork.
I inserted the wheel and aligned the caliper before final torque on the two fixing bolts.
At the moment I will not fit mudguards. The two black mudguard brackets I received from MASON look really nice. I do not want to leave the two holes in the fork open to the elements and I do not want to run the fork with the two brackets in place
The supplied bolts are too long if using for sealing up the two holes. I happened to have two similar bolts which were way too long, so cut them down to size. To give a nice compression seal fit against the fork, I fitted a small O ring to the screw. This now makes a perfect fitting sealing bolt for the two holes in the fork.
This was all going very well. All I now needed to do was to fit the front derailleur cable. Unfortunately I have forgotten to buy a barrel adjuster.. Build ground to a ?halt.
So time for a glass of wine … and order the barrel adjuster..
Next week should see the build completed. I cannot wait to get out and give the bike a spin
Running the cable to the front derailleur was easy. I decided to use split outer just like I had done for the rear derailleur.
I used Mastinox on the threaded hole for the insert to ensure that the screw will not bind and be easy to remove in the future
I then cut a small piece of the outer housing and used the Jagwire end supplied with the frame at the end facing the rear derailleur
The Ultegra front derailleur has a small pin that should face inboard or outboard depending on how the wire will approach the fixing point. To decide which way to fit this pin a small plastic guide is provided with the derailleur.
I ran a bit of fishing line that I had laying around up via the Jagwire endcap.
This made it easy to see that the pin should be facing inboards. Full instructions is provided with the derailleur.
I had bought black EASTON handlebar tape. It had a strip of sticky gel running down the middle which made it really easy to wrap as it would stick to the handle bar and not unravel if you let go
I had to do a bit of readjusting and I think that I could have made some of the cable loops a bit shorter. Will see when I take the bike for its first ride.
garmin mount and more 3M tape
I fitted the K-Edge XL Aero Mount for my Garmin. Very nice light weight aluminium mount. But way to expensive.
I added 3M Tape to each side of the nice MASON logo to protect the paintwork from the cable rubbing against it
Final last tweaks
I replaced the black countersunk screw provided with the Deda cap with a much better looking stainless countersunk screw.
I ended up using 3 Clips to secure rear derailleur cable.
- The top clip is on the outside of the tube.
- The middle one is on the inside.
- Both of them are secured tight.
- The bottom is not set tight the P clip is free to pivot up in case the chain breaks and the derailleur flips.
I still feel that it would have been better to run the rear derailleur cable in a more conventional way as mentioned earlier.
Two strips on each side. Excellent reflective characteristic. Will hold up very well against sunlight and UV light.
Two strips on each side. Excellent reflective characteristic. Will hold up very well against sunlight and UV light.
and now we ride ….
So the question is … Will it be faster than its own shadow ?… (probably, with a faster rider .. 🙂 ..)
Great first ride!
A few things stood out compared to my old bike
The ride felt less harsh, better damping over the unevenness in the road. The slightly longer frame felt more comfortable. It also felt more secure / stable when taking the corners.
However it felt less racy than the Giant. Which is what I expected.
So as an endurance bike this was definitely the right choice.
Very happy!! 🙂
Overall I am very happy with the bike.
I need to break in the brake pads as I did not get that done at today’s ride. It was more fun cycling than breaking 🙂
Some of the cable loops around the handle bar are too long. No big deal and I will not bother changing them now. However I think I will change the split outer for the front and rear derailleur to solid outer next year. If the inner should snap when on a very long bike ride (like one TCR5 should I be in luck!) then I do not want the hassle of trying to replace the inner and removing the inserts.
Much more sensible and practical to have a full length outer to make inserting the inner a “no hassle” operation.
One can always make a good argument for running cables externally for ease of maintenance. It may not look so pretty but I cannot see how it would not be the best practical solution for a cable operated gear system.
Bottom line. All in all … Its a great bike frame supplied by a company who provide excellent after sales service! I cannot recommend them enough …
P.S. Just need to add my small Norwegian flag sticker to the fork and the build is completed 🙂
Components and total bike weight
I did weigh every item fitted to the bike kitchen scale so no guarantee on accuracy, but overall I think it’s pretty accurate +/- 5%. Then I used my luggage scale to weight the complete bike. The two figures this not match 100%, which was to be expected considering that none of the scales are calibrated.
|Frameset – 56 Large||MASON||2.140|
|Fork – 700C (before cut)||MASON||0.448|
|Carbon Steerer bung||Deda (Cap in bag with marking HDTCAP)||0.024|
|Headset bearing kit||Deda||0.075|
|12mm front wheel axle||MASON||0.072|
|Bottle Carrier||Elite Custom Race Resin Bottle Cage Stealth||0.043|
|Bottle Carrier||Elite Custom Race Resin Bottle Cage Stealth||0.043|
|Disk brake caliper for fork Flat mount||Spyre||0.176|
|Disk? 160mm||With adaptor from Hunt wheels||0.146|
|Brake cable outer for front brake||Jagwire KEB-SL (compression less 800mm long end to end)||0.033|
|Front wheel – with Conti 25c||MASON x HUNT 4Season Disc Road Aero/CX Wheel set | 1585g | 27Deep 23Wide||1.080|
|Rear wheel – with Conti 25c||1.220|
|Rear Wheel Skewer||Hunt brand||0.065|
|Front derailleur – clamp on||FD-6800-B (M/S) Ultegra||0.105|
|Gear cable outer for front derailleur||Jagwire LEX ? SL|
|Gear cable inner for front derailleur||Jagwire|
|Rear derailleur long cage||RD-6800-GS (max 32T) 11 speed Ultegra||0.214|
|Cable and wire kit||Jagwire Road Pro Complete Gear and Cable Kit|
|Gear cable outer for rear derailleur||Jagwire LEX – SL|
|Gear cable inner for rear derailleur||Jagwire|
|Disk brake caliper for rear wheel||TRP Spyre Mechanical Disc Brake Caliper||0.160|
|Disk 140mm for rear wheel||With adapter from Hunt Wheels||0.133|
|Brake cable outer for rear brake||Jagwire KEB-SL (compression less 1700 mm long end to end)||0.070|
|Seat post||27.2mm x 300 – Ritchey superlogic carbon||0.150|
|Saddle||Specialized Romin Evo Expert Gel Saddle 2016 (155mm)||0.278|
|Crank||Crank Ultegra 6800 172.5mm 50 – 34||0.701|
|Bottom bracket – BSA 68mm wide||Shimano Dura Ace 9000 Bottom Bracket Cups||0.065|
|Cassette||Shimano Ultegra 6800 11 speed 11-32||0.293|
|Chain? HG-EV type||Ultegra chain – CNHG70011114E||0.263|
|Pedal left and right||Shimano Dura Ace 9000 SPD-SL Carbon||0.248|
|Handle bars||Deda Zero100 Zero 100 RHM? W440 Reach 75 Drop 130 – 7075 Alloy||0.273|
|Stem||Deda Zero 100 Performance Stem Black/Black? (31.8) – 90mm long||0.105|
|STI Shifters||Shimano Ultegra 6800 STi Lever Set||0.421|
|Bar Tape||Easton Microfiber Road Handlebar Tape|
|Garmin mount||K-Edge XL Aero Mount 31.8mm|
|Headset Spacers||Deda Carbon 3 x 10mm|
|Headset Spacers||Deda Carbon 1 x 5mm (under top cap)|
|Inline barrel adjuster||Shimano SM-CA70 Inline Gear Cable Adjusters|
|Total component weight||9.310|
This compares favorable to my Giant Defy 0 which weight 8.25kg